Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Summer Bubbles

Why do we wait for the holidays to drink Champagne or sparkling wine? I think it is ironic, that one of the most thirsts quenching of wines, one that is supposed to be served cold, is designated for the coolest time of the year. Now, I will admit that I am somewhat of a bubbly head. I rarely turn down a glass of the bubbly, any time of the year, but I really like the sparkling stuff in the summer. After a hot day, I like nothing better than a cool refreshing glass of Champagne. It does quench my thirst; it cools me off and changes my attitude on life.

There are so many different sparkling wines on the market. France is not the only quality producer any more, Spain, Italy, South Africa, and the United States all make premium sparkling wines. Some of my recommendations come from these different countries.

First is Cristalino Brut. This is a Spanish sparkler, it has a nice green apple character. It has a good bead of bubbles and a touch of acidity that makes it easy to drink more than one glass. It cost $8, a good value.

Next up is an Italian Proseco. Proseco is what the Italians call their sparkling wines. This one comes from Zardetto. Most Prosecos will be touch sweeter then sparkling wines from other parts of the world. Zardetto has a nose of toast and apples, in the mouth it is fruity and thirst quenching. It will cost you $15.

Finally we step up to the big boy, French Champagne. Henriot Blanc de Blanc is full bodied, scrumptious Champagne. It is made from 100% Chardonnay. This is one of my favorite Champagnes. I love the crispness of the wine. Its long finish, and full bodied taste, makes me want to finish the bottle. Then the trouble would start, just ask…. never mind.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

An Old Friend

On a recent trip, I found myself perusing a restaurant wine list. Skimming through, I found the Pinot Noir section. As I went down the list of Pinots, I saw an old friend, Sainstbury Carneros Pinot Noir. Since the movie Sideways hit the screens, we have been inundated with Pinot Noirs. There seems to be a new one every week. I have chased after many of them. Too many of them are overblown and overpriced. However, the wine press loves them. To me, many of these Pinots taste like Syrah. Pinot Noir is a femine wine, loads of flavors, without the tannin and structure of say, a Syrah. If I want a Syrah I will order a Syrah.

Back to the wine list and the Sainstsbury. Sainstbury is one of the pioneers in California Pinot Noir. The Carneros region is now famous for Pinot Noir. They can thank Sainstsbury for this fame. In my quest for the newest and hottest Pinot, I forgot about them. Yet here they were on the wine list. I ordered a glass and was rewarded with a delicious wine. The aroma of strawberries and loganberries waft up from the glass. Across the palate these same flavors danced, a hint of acidity, then a long clean finish. It was an old friend that did not let me down.
This was Pinot.

Monday, July 14, 2008

Wine and Memory

The other day I was hunting through my cellar looking for a certain bottle. As I picked up bottle after bottle, I realized my wine cellar is a reflection of my life. Certain bottles remind me of certain people and times in my life.

The 1985 Santa Cruz Bates Ranch comes from my first visit to Monterey. In 1988 I came west for a vacation. We stayed in Monterey and I bought the bottle at a tasting bar a few blocks from the aquarium. Why am I keeping it? I don’t know for sure, but maybe it is a tangible reminder of the trip.

The 1994 Rafanelli Zinfandel goes back to my Zinfandel period. In my Zin period, I bought cases of Zin; I joined ZAP, Zinfandel advocate and Producers, and did other rash things. When I visited the Rafanelli winery and had the 1994, I thought it was the best Zinfandel I had ever tasted. But here sits three bottles. I have not opened any of them. Why? Maybe they won’t live up to my expectations; maybe I was all wrong about this wine. I know I don’t buy Zinfandel the way I used to. Perhaps, I am avoiding a letdown.

Look over here a 1982 Margaux! This is the first great bottle of wine I bought. I bought in 1985, after my first visit to the White House. It was to be opened with four of my college buddies in 2005. We are three years late. Will it happen? Who knows? It will slumber a little longer.

This BV Carneros Pinot was given to me on for my 39th birthday. We were going to drink it together, but that never did happen. It is not getting better at this point, but I still haven’t found the time and place to drink it. Is it another bottle taking up space, or another memory sitting snugly in my cellar?

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Green Lions?

Have you ever heard of a green lion? Probably not, I have been searching my memory to see if there was something in mythology that I missed. Nothing in Greek or Roman myth that I could find. Perhaps there are green lions in Indian myth, like the Upanishads. Are there any green lions in Persian myths such as the Shanameh or Ferdowski?

I know, I know, you are all saying, “what does this have to do with wine?” Well, Green Lion is a Napa Cabernet, with and Aussie twist. The wine is collaboration between Dan Philips, owner of the Grateful Palate, and Chris Ringland, one of the top wine makers in Australia. Many consider the Grateful Palate, the premier Australian wine importer. Chris Ringland has fashioned a Napa Valley Cabernet, which has many of those Aussie flavors we love. This a flashy wine, oodles of fruit, supple taste mid-palate and long tasty finishes. If you like big Aussie wines, you will like this one. Priced around $19, not much made, get it while you can.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Whither Zinfandel?

A few years ago everyone was drinking Zinfandel. That does not seem to be the case anymore. Remember when you could get a knock out Zinfandel for under $10 bucks? So, what happened?

Like most California wines, they ignored the inflation rates of the 90’s and early 2000’s and kept raising their prices. Zinfandel and “value” used to be synonyms. Now they are oxymorons. In my opion the quality of Zinfandel is not what it used to be. Now, I know everyone is going to throw a name at me, but overall the exciting Zin’s seem to have gone away. Remember the three R’s, Ravenswood, Rosenblum and Ridge? Only Ridge has not been bought up by a liquor conglomerate.

I also think imports have taken a piece out of the Zin boom. Many wines from Spain and Australia have the same fruit profile of Zinfandel, big, ripe fruit up front and a hint of alcohol on the finish. These imports offer the flavors people enjoy at a cheaper price.

There are still a few values out there, I enjoy Seghesio Sonoma, Sausal, Rutherford Ranch, Saucelito Canyon and Franus. I have found these wines are consistent year to year. They are also fairly priced. Give them a try and tell me if I am wrong.
I am sure I will hear about it.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Comments on Greatness

Recently, I had dinner with a world renowned wine collector (I can drop a name here, but that would be gauche). We were rhapsodizing about the great wines. He commented, “Where are the great wines like the 47 Cheval Blanc or the 61 Palmer? Where are these monumental wines of the past?” His point was that we recognize certain wines as great or monumental and there doesn’t seem to be wines that stand out in today’s world, as they did in past vintages.
We discussed the fact, that wine making has made great strides and you rarely find undrinkable wine in today’s market. You may find wine that does not appeal to you, but rarely do you find undrinkable wine. That would not have been the case in the 40’s and 50’s. The level between the top wines and the lower tier was a much greater chasm then you find today. The great wines of this era may stand out more, because of the competition.
What effect does time have on a wines reputation? Does a great wine have to stand out for several years before it reaches great status? In 1950, did they taste the 45 Mouton and think, “This was one of the greatest wines ever made.” If that is the case, has not enough time passed to see what will be the great modern wines? Perhaps we are tasting some great wines that will be judged as monumental by a succeeding generation. They will be able to see how it held up over time.
We had the 1990 Pavie at this dinner. Most felt it was an exceptional wine. What if this wine holds together for another 30 years? Would it be considered a monumental wine? Will it stand out from its peers? I think I will keep my last bottle for a few more years and see what happens.

Friday, July 4, 2008

A different style

I just had the Cape Mentelle Shiraz today. Today being the Fourth of July. So if you are reading this tomorrow, then I did not have it today. I digress. Cape Mentelle is an Australian winery. Some of you may wonder, “What is Shiraz?” It is the same grape as Syrah. Why Shiraz? It is a bit complicated and you get several different stories. The most often repeated story is that they think the Syrah grape originally came from Persia, of course Persia is no longer Persia, we now call it Iran. I think you may have heard a little bit about that country recently. Anyway, avoiding geopolitical commentary, in Persia they have a grape called Shiraz. Of course they speak Farsi in Iran, so I am not sure what they actually call the grape. Are you still following this? I think the Aussie’s just like to confuse me.

Back to the wine, this is not you typical Aussie Shiraz, it is a more elegant wine. Many Shiraz’s are huge, alcoholic, tannic monsters. The type of wine that takes the enamel off your teeth. If you want that, then you don’t want the Cape Mentelle. Cape Mentell is located in the Margaret River region of Australia. The Margaret River is a cooler region and the grapes get longer hang time. Longer hang time allows the grapes to develop complexity and finesse. So, if you are interested in wine that has cherry and raspberry flavors, a touch of smokiness, a little sweet oak thrown in, then this is your wine. The term delicious comes to mind.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

3 from the left coast

What do I have for you today? How about three really good California wines.

The first wine is Macrostie Chardonnay 2006. Macrostie comes from the southern end of the Sonoma Valley, in the Carneros region. The Carneros region spans both Napa and Sonoma. It forms a crescent around the top of San Pablo Bay. This Chardonnay has a nice, citrus note. It has a thread of acidity running through the wine that makes it thirst quenching. Isn’t odd that we rarely refer to wine as thirst quenching? It has some oak, but just a kiss of oak. It is a very well balanced Chardonnay. Normally, priced in the $22 range

I found a new Pinot producer called Keller. The 2005 Keller Pinot Noir is in the Sonoma Coast appellation. The Sonoma Coast appellation is located …. Well on the Sonoma Coast. This is a real Pinot Noir, not a Pinot on steroids. It is loaded with flavors of ripe cher¬ries, raspberries, and cola, with smoky, spicy complexities from the French oak. The mouth feel is smooth and velvety, sliding to a long, fruity finish. I really like this wine. This is what Pinot should be. Priced between $36 and $40

The final wine is Larkmead 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate. Now Larkmead is a new name for me, but has been around for 100 years. This is a historic property, located due north of St. Helena in the Napa Valley. It has a long and storied history. I won’t go into that now, but Google it sometime. It is very interesting. The wine itself is gorgeous. The color is a deep purple hue. The nose is a cornucopia of smells. (Those new to this e-mail will find I like the word cornucopia). Aro¬mas of graphite, black currants, and spice waft up from the glass. In the mouth it is a blockbuster of a wine. Loads of fruit, flavors cascade across the palate. The finish is long and pure. This could be a good Second Growth along the lines of Cos de Estrounel.

Keller wines and poor eyesight

Let me begin by answering a question. The question was, “why the big font in the last message?” The simple answer is… so I could read it. Apparently those younger then me prefer a smaller font. I believe in customer service, so we will back down the font and I will suffer in silence. Don’t worry about me, just because I am doing all the work, why should you do something to help me out (I suppose this is not suffering in silence).

In the last blog, I talked about the Keller Pinot Noir. I was enamored of this wine. This time we will talk about two of their Chardonnays. The first is called Oro de Plata. Now, I am from the east coast, and was not exposed to Spanish, until I heeded Horace Greely’s dictum, “Go west young man”. If I am correct, and most likely I am not, Oro means gold. “Plata” is where I have my problem. When I was working on my degree, there was a Mexican restaurant called Platte Grande. I was told that meant “big plate.” I am pretty sure it was not spelled “Plata” (do you get the feeling that I am off on a tangent). Anyway, back to the wine. The Oro Plata is an oak free chardonnay. It has a citrus, green apple thing going on in its flavors. A crisp, clean finish makes this a great wine to sip on the upcoming warm days, and you know they are coming! $22 - $25

The other Chardonnay is the La Cruz Vineyard. Don’t worry I won’t try to interpret “La Cruz.” This way, those of you who have read this far, all two or three of you, will hopefully stay to the end. The La Cruz is an oaked Chardonnay. One of the reason I have become enamored with Keller, some of you are probably thinking un-healthily enamored, is that the do a good job with their oak management. None of their wines are woody, they use oak to flavor the wine, not dominate the wine. This Chardonnay has some buttery notes to go with the apple, quince, and lemon peel notes. $32 - $35. These are two different wines for two different settings. (Is that a redundant statement) (you may notice I use way to much parenthetical information for a serious blogger) (But it is my blog) (you know this whole font things has got me in a poor mood).


Alright that is it, I have to get some reading glasses

A few good Aussies

This week I was fortunate enough to have some excellent Australian wines. Most people think tasting and judging wine is always fortunate, but there are some wines that it is not always fortunate to drink. But I digress.

The Hazard Hill, Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2005, is a really tasty little wine. There is ample fruit character, mostly melon, lemon zest and a little pear. The acidity gives the wine a little zing. The Hazard Hill wines come from cooler regions of Australia. Cooler climate tends to make more acidic grapes. This would be a great wine to sip on a warm night and you know they are coming.

Trevor Jones is a well known producer from the Barossa region of Australia. I had two of his wines that I really liked. (Not that I had wines from him I didn’t like, I just had two of his wine and I like both) (You will find I get easily off track). The first was his Boots Grenache 2005. It has a nice, ripe, cherry quality. It is soft at the mid-palate and then segues into a medium length finish. This wine would be nice with some barbecue chicken. Yes, a red wine with chicken, come on live the wild side! The other Trevor Jones wine was the Jonsey Port. This is a Tawny Port. It is filled with caramel, almonds and crème Brule flavors. I have a sweet tooth and drink plenty of port, trust me this is a beauty.

The final wine to ponder is the Henry’s Drive Shiraz 2006. The bouquet of this wine was a cornucopia of aromas. Plumbs, boysenberries, cherries are all present in the aroma of this wine. On the palate, you get similar tastes. This is a big, bold wine and I like it! And what Henry actually drives I do not know.